Young reds from the right vintages without hard extract are magnificent. This Bagot reminds me of those deeply coloured and powerful Moulin a Vent-Beaujolais, I imported in the 1970s. Deep in colour, one glass led to another, as did the bottles. How can wine be so pleasant. This vintage produced wines with a pronounced aroma and the winemaker has highlighted this with a light touch in the winery-such as no pressings added back. A must buy though will not evolve into a Karrawirra.

The rare and wonderful comes from the Barossa Valley. Within the best Shiraz, Mataro and Grenache those with a top palate can identify wines that have an edge over all the others. This Rara Avis, the fifth we have made since 2004, is our best Shiraz from 2022. Will keep for a long time though even the best we prefer to see consumed at a younger age.